• Steens Mountain

    I’d once read that Steens Mountain might be the most beautiful place in all of Oregon.  That’s much said.  I’d been to Oregon’s beaches, up and down its coast, licked the icing from its Cascades, swatted mosquitoes in the heavy snows at Crater Lake in June.  So Steens had a lot to live up to.  […]

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  • Rainbow Rim, Sunset

    It Lives Up to Its Name

    The canyon losing definition as the sun breaks toward the Uinkarets, a tented line of volcanos to the west.  Declivities dissolve into dusky and soft shapes.  Cavities fill, first with light, and then swell with darkness.  Bereft of the contours chiseled from the day’s youth, the sandstone at […]

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  • Dead Wood

    Needful Things

    Canyonlands NP, Needles District:

    I decided on a day hike from Elephant Hill trailhead.  The trail ends about seven miles  –  or three to four hours later  – at Druid’s Arch.

    I passed by sandstone domes and open canyon, representative of much of southeastern Utah.  The sandstone smoothed into blunted heads, stained with desert […]

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  • Dune Dudes

    Great Sand Dunes National Park, San Luis Valley, CO.

    The San Luis Valley is a land of superlatives.  It’s the size of Connecticut.  It’s a vast bowl surrounded on all sides by high mountains—the Sangre de Cristo on the east and the San Juans to the west.  Yet it’s as flat as the Great Plains. There’s […]

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  • Path Up the Mountain

    A Maddeningly baaa-aad path

    Off the westbound lane of highway 160, smack dab on the La Plata-Montezuma County line at the summit of a grade locally called Mancos Hill, you can turn right into National Forest.  Just take Madden Peak Road.

    If you’re in a pint-sized Toyota Yaris with about an inch of ground clearance […]

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  • Things a Mountain Taught Me

     

    Not a Mountain in England

    I had hiked mountains in England’s Lake District a couple years before, and again yesterday.  Today I decided to get adventurous.  I took a ferry from the resort town of  Windemere across the eponymous lake, largest in England, to the tea-cozy village of Ambleside with its farms hemmed in […]

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  • Wrecking the W(r)est

    Sand Canyon

    I imagine that the farmers which lived on the outskirts of the first known city, Ur, in Mesopotamia, formed a committee to oppose its development. They appeared before the first Planning and Zoning Commission and pointed out the ordinance against subdivision in lots smaller than three acres. And lost. It’s been the […]

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  • I Ain’t Ready for Paradise

    I went out for a hike with my good friend, Ben. Before the pandemic, we’d go out every Sunday up Horse Gulch or down the Animas River or even just stroll through Durango, addressing and solving the problems of the world. Today’s hike was a little more significant for me. I was hiking, sans mask, […]

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  • In Each Moment, a New Skin

    It’d been a depressing start to the day. More bad news on the virus, on riots, on another type of depression we were all going through, only they spelled that one with a capital ‘D.’ I’d spoken via phone with my normally ebullient mother back in Chicago, but she was depressed, too. Everybody seemed to […]

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  • My Unconditioner is Broken

     

    Bliss

    I was hiking in a canyon off the beaten path just after dawn when I decided to reach a ridge and see if I could spy Monument Valley from it. I waded and zigzagged through the sage and Mormon tea, finally using a box-shaped juniper as my guidepost. Out here in southeast Utah, […]

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